J. Bryan Lowder

J. Bryan Lowder uses food writing to argue about how people live, cook, and navigate ethical choices, blending sharp opinion with practical guidance for home cooks. He is a senior editor at Slate and co-host of the Outward LGBTQ podcast, and his remit spans life, culture, advice, queer issues, with a special focus on food and drink. His food pieces tend to be argument-driven, slightly provocative, and grounded in his experience as an avid home cook.

Food ethics and what counts as meat

Lowder’s most widely discussed food essay argues that chicken stock does not count as “real meat,” on the grounds that it contains a very small percentage of animal flesh. In that piece, he challenges rigid interpretations of vegetarianism and questions how strictly hosts and diners should police ingredients like broth. The column sparked strong reaction from vegetarian and vegan readers and was debated across other publications and online forums, which treated his stance on chicken stock as a deliberate provocation. This controversy shows how he uses food as a way to test the boundaries of dietary labels and social obligations, pushing readers to think about what their rules actually mean at the table.

Service writing and strong opinions for home cooks

Alongside argument pieces, Lowder writes service-oriented food columns that tell readers exactly how to cook a dish and why his way is better. In “A Southerner Explains How You’re Doing Grits Wrong,” he combines direct, almost corrective advice with step-by-step technique to teach a classic comfort food, writing from the perspective of an avid home cook. In more recent work such as “Once You Make It, You’ll Never Go Back,” he frames a recipe around a bold promise that a particular preparation is worth switching to for good. His pie column, “Forget Strawberry-Rhubarb. This Mysterious, Unconventional Pie Is the One You Should Be Baking Right Now,” takes the same approach, urging readers to move beyond the familiar and try a less conventional dessert in clear, persuasive prose. He tends to spotlight approachable dishes—grits, pies, and other homey foods—and pairs accessible instructions with assertive claims about taste and technique.

Domestic space, taste, and cultural criticism

Lowder also writes about the spaces and media around food, not just the recipes themselves. In one widely noted piece, he critiques the push for open-plan kitchens, taking aim at the standard argument that knocking down walls automatically improves everyday cooking and entertaining. He draws on long hours watching HGTV and other lifestyle television to examine how design trends shape people’s expectations of domestic life. This kind of cultural criticism treats kitchen layout, privacy, and performance as part of food culture, showing how architecture and aspirational TV influence what people think a “good” kitchen should be. Across these essays, he uses food as a lens on taste, status, and the gap between televised ideals and the reality of home cooking.

Editorial role in food, drink, and LGBTQ+ culture

Beyond his bylines, Lowder plays a central editorial role in shaping the magazine’s food coverage. He is listed as a key contact for pitches on food and drink, as well as LGBTQ+ culture, which positions him at the point where culinary stories meet broader questions of identity and community. As a senior editor who also covers life, culture, advice, and queer issues, he brings a wide-angle view to food stories, favoring pieces that connect eating and cooking to ethics, social norms, and cultural debates. His mix of reported service columns, commentary on domestic space, and polarizing essays about meat signals an interest in food that goes beyond restaurant reviews to how everyday choices in the kitchen reflect larger values.