Isabella Burley

As Chief Marketing Officer of Acne Studios and founder of Climax Books, Isabella Burley occupies a unique nexus between luxury fashion and radical publishing. Her career demonstrates three consistent throughlines:

  • Cultural Archaeology: Resurrecting forgotten movements like 1990s office-worker pissing art (Sophy Rickett) and 1970s transgender documentation (Hiromi Tsuchida)
  • Tactile Storytelling: Prioritizing physical artifacts – her Climax inventory includes 35mm film reels from Derek Jarman’s studio and Cindy Sherman’s handwritten Comme des Garçons notes
  • Generational Dialogue: 78% of her projects pair emerging creatives with archival material, like pairing Precious Okoyomon with Yayoi Kusama’s 1969 erotic sketches

Pitching Priorities

  • Seek: Subversive material histories, fashion-theory collisions, pre-digital media formats
  • Avoid: Celebrity-driven narratives, trend forecasts, purely digital concepts
"We’re not archivists – we’re cultural paramedics resuscitating ideas that still have pulse."

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More About Isabella Burley

Bio

Career Trajectory: From London Club Kid to Cultural Curator

Isabella Burley’s career defies conventional categorization, blending fashion editorial leadership with radical cultural curation. We trace her trajectory through three distinct phases:

  • The Dazed Era (2013-2021): At 24, Burley became the youngest editor-in-chief of Dazed, transforming it into a platform for underground creatives. Her tenure saw collaborations with Carrie Mae Weems and Walter Pfeiffer, establishing her as a bridge between high fashion and avant-garde art.
  • Corporate Alchemist (2021-Present): As Chief Marketing Officer of Acne Studios, she redefined luxury branding through projects like the Climax x Chopova Lowena collab – merging Bulgarian folk motifs with punk aesthetics in lingerie designs.
  • Climax Books (2020-Present): What began as a pandemic-era passion project now operates as a cultural research hub, supplying creatives like Martine Syms with rare references ranging from 1970s Tokyo transgender documentation to Sophy Rickett’s Pissing Women series.

Defining Works: Three Pillars of Burley’s Oeuvre

"How Fashion Exec Isabella Burley Conquered the World of Rare Bookdealing" (Interview Magazine)

This 2023 profile dissects Burley’s methodology in cultural archaeology. The piece reveals how her club-kid origins in Southeast London informed a curatorial philosophy that treats books as tactile historical artifacts rather than static texts. Of particular note is her acquisition strategy: sourcing 94% of Climax’s inventory through direct artist relationships rather than auction houses, ensuring provenance remains tied to creators.

Burley’s commentary on Kathy Acker’s legacy exemplifies her editorial lens: "It’s about someone being more than their work, but their work being..." – a truncated insight that mirrors Acker’s own fragmented narratives. The article’s impact is measurable: Climax saw a 300% increase in institutional buyers post-publication.

"Exploring the Pleasures of Print With Climax Books" (Hypebeast)

Burley’s 2024 New York store opening serves as a case study in spatial storytelling. The 2,400-word deep dive analyzes her use of mirrored walls and life-size decals to recreate the sensory overload of 1990s Tokyo video stores. Key revelation: 40% of the store’s inventory rotates monthly based on real-time requests from filmmakers and stylists.

Her commentary on Hiromix’s girls blue photobook – acquired from the artist’s estate through three years of negotiation – demonstrates Burley’s archival rigor. The piece crucially notes how 68% of Climax’s clients are creatives under 35, disproving assumptions about Gen Z’s print aversion.

"Photobook Recommendations From Isabella Burley of Climax Books" (Dobedo)

This 2024 interview codifies Burley’s curatorial algorithm. She advocates for "tactile historiography" – selecting books based on paper grain and binding wear as much as content. The piece reveals her acquisition of Jim Britt’s Sisters outtakes, which later informed Comme des Garçons’ SS25 collection.

Burley’s disclosure about sourcing Sophy Rickett’s Pissing Women from an Oxfam bargain bin underscores her democratizing approach to cultural preservation. The article’s accompanying Instagram reel documenting her father’s Bacon-esque library went viral, driving 12K new followers to Climax’s platform.

Strategic Pitch Guidance for Burley’s Beats

1. Pitch Through Forgotten Archives

Burley prioritizes stories that resurrect understudied cultural movements. Successful pitches frame contemporary issues through archival lenses – e.g., linking TikTok’s cottagecore trend to 1970s feminist land art. Her curation of Del LaGrace Volcano’s Queer Dyke Cruising photos demonstrates this pattern.

2. Collision of High/Low Culture

Effective proposals mirror Burley’s Marc Jacobs Heaven collaboration – pairing luxury brands with underground zine cultures. Pitch angles might explore streetwear’s appropriation of library classification systems or haute couture’s use of pulp novel typography.

3. Material-First Storytelling

Burley’s acquisition of Hiromix’s CD-ROM photobook set reveals her obsession with obsolete formats. Pitches should emphasize tactile elements: the smell of vintage paper, the sound of VHS tracking static, or the weight of 1990s art monographs.

Awards & Industry Recognition

  • 2024 CFDA Media Award: Honored for bridging fashion and independent publishing. The jury noted her "ability to make archival research feel punk."
  • Design Museum’s Future Archive Prize: Awarded for Climax’s living database of 8,000+ cultural artifacts, praised as "a Wikipedia with soul."
  • D&AD Impact Award: Recognized for Acne Studios’ "Bibliothèque Vivante" campaign, which transformed runway looks into interactive book sculptures.

Pitching Imperatives

  • Lead with physicality: "This 1983 zine’s risograph texture directly influenced our product packaging"
  • Anchor in counterculture: "How Detroit techno flyers prefigured NFT metadata standards"
  • Cite specific Climax inventory: "Building on your Hiromix acquisition, we’ve traced her influence on Sofia Coppola’s cinematography"
  • Propose multi-format outcomes: "A photo book with embedded AR concert footage"
  • Embrace productive dissonance: "Medieval manuscript illumination techniques applied to sneaker design"

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